Skab driver

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SKAB allows working with two main problems there are two markups for anomalies : Outlier detection anomalies considered and marked up as single-point anomalies ; Changepoint detection anomalies considered and marked up as collective anomalies. All the details regarding the testbed and the experimenting process are presented in the following artifacts: Position paper currently submitted for publication ; Slides about the project.

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English Arabic. Search for:. Learn More. Git stats 44 commits. Failed to load latest commit information. View code. About This software is not maintained. Resources Readme. Releases 6 tags. Packages 0 No packages published. These should be joined together with wood glue and counter sunk wood screws. Or use any method of joining you prefer. If have the equipment a nice dovetail joint would really be slick.

The basic idea is that you are making a box that has the same dimensions as a besta door. While you are building the box of doors you will need to attach the doors together in ways they were not meant to be attached. For some of the hinge positions you will be able to use the pre cut holes and plastic inserts to mount the door side round part of the hinge. This is how the hinges are attached to the two side panels.

For the front and back panels you will need to attach the cabinet side of the hinge to the door. You can place hinge on these panels directly over the precut holes, you just need to remove the plastic insert with a pair of pliers and drill new mounting holes. You can then use sheet metal screws to attach the hinges. This means that the remaining two panels, the back and the right side do not open and are attached to the frame.

I used small steel brackets from the hardware store to attach the inside of each of these panels to the frame and to each other. This is also a good time to add some reenforcing brackets to the inside corners of the frame. I decided to paint the frame white to match the doors. In preparation I filled the counter sunk screw holes on the outside of the frame with wood filler, let it dry and sanded it smooth. Next I painted it outside with a spray enamel. Because I chose to use an enamel I had to wait several days between coats and about a week before it was ready to be handled.

This added about 2 weeks of mostly waiting time to the project. When the enamel had finally cured it was time to attach the base. The base should have come out perfectly aligned with the Lappviken door, however in the two weeks it had slightly shifted and was slightly out of alignment this was not enough that I couldn't make it work.

If I were to do this again I would probably use a denser wood such as oak that would have less of a tendency to skew, although it would increase the cost.

I used the Lappviken door as the base. The inside of the door would face down and the outside of the door would face up.